Stuck between Russia and Azerbaijan
History from the Azerbaijani villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba
"The state guarantees everyone equality of rights and freedoms, regardless of race and ethnicity," declares Article 25 of the Constitution of Azerbaijan, and many in society believe in the principle. But ethnic Lezgins in two small villages far in the mountains in the north of the country have been living in a rather different situation for twelve years — they are not allowed to own land or live on equal terms with their neighbors, and no one can offer an explanation.
These villages were ceded to Azerbaijan by Russia in 2010 after border delimitation was completed. Inhabitants were offered a choice: accept Azerbaijani citizenship or leave for Russia. Almost everyone left the village of Khrakhoba. And in Uryanoba, almost everyone remained. They believed that the adoption of citizenship meant equal rights under the law, and not just a passport.
These villages were ceded to Azerbaijan by Russia in 2010 after border delimitation was completed. Inhabitants were offered a choice: accept Azerbaijani citizenship or leave for Russia. Almost everyone left the village of Khrakhoba. And in Uryanoba, almost everyone remained. They believed that the adoption of citizenship meant equal rights under the law, and not just a passport.
- Excuse me, can you tell me how to get to the village of Uryanoba?
- Uryanoba? There is no such village in Khachmaz region.
We are a little lost after receiving this answer from a local resident in the district center of Khachmaz. Fortunately our traveling companion turned out to be more knowledgeable compared to his countrymen.
- Many people of Khachmaz do not know the village of Uryanoba. You should have asked for the grave of Uryan Baba, they would have known that.
This pir [a sacred place, often the graves of revered locals - ed.] is located right at the entrance to Uryanoba.
- Uryanoba? There is no such village in Khachmaz region.
We are a little lost after receiving this answer from a local resident in the district center of Khachmaz. Fortunately our traveling companion turned out to be more knowledgeable compared to his countrymen.
- Many people of Khachmaz do not know the village of Uryanoba. You should have asked for the grave of Uryan Baba, they would have known that.
This pir [a sacred place, often the graves of revered locals - ed.] is located right at the entrance to Uryanoba.
Forgotten since the Soviet era
Our companion says that, despite relative proximity to the regional center, Uryanoba was a village of just ten or twelve homes in the Soviet era.
“It’s the same now. God has already forgotten us. Neither Russia nor Azerbaijan needs us. We renounced Russian citizenship, became citizens of Azerbaijan, and decided to live in our native village. But so many years have passed and no one knows of our troubles. Left in limbo. We can’t legalize our houses, lands, what we inherited from our ancestors. All our property and land documents refer to Dagestan (Russian Federation) and are not valid here. But wherever we turn with an appeal that we have been citizens of Azerbaijan for twelve years, they won’t listen to us.”
We begin to learn about life in Uryanoba from local resident Adil, whom we met on a rural road.
The grave of Uryan Baba (grandfather Uryan - Az.) is located inside this building. Here people make wishes and break dishes for happiness.
Hanging on a tree nearby are handkerchiefs and clothes of those who need help
During the Soviet era, two villages in the Khachmaz region (located 160 km north of Baku) inhabited by ethnic Lezgins - Khrakhoba and Uryanoba - were administratively subordinate to the Dagestan Autonomous Republic, which was part of the Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, both villages remained within the borders of Azerbaijan as enclaves of Russia. Khrakhoba was administratively under the Magerramkent region, and Uryanoba under the Akhtinsky region of Dagestan. The inhabitants of these enclaves were Russian citizens.
Adil, who was born and raised in Uryanoba, says he was forced to leave for Russia in order to earn money. After the status of the enclave was abolished and the village came under the jurisdiction of Azerbaijan, he returned to his homeland, renounced Russian citizenship, and became a citizen of Azerbaijan. But he could not arrange a normal life for himself in Uryanoba.
Land in rural areas is divided into shares, of which local residents have the right to acquire ownership. In small villages, this is 12-15 acres per person; in larger villages, often per hectare. A resident can sell this land, rent it out, build something there as they see fit.
And if a villager decides to grow something on this land, they are entitled to state subsidies which often cover a significant part of the costs, such as for seeds, fertilizers, even equipment.
“All locals have these rights and opportunities. But we are not allowed to privatize the land, and here it is impossible to earn money by doing agriculture. So I live with my family in the town center and work there. And I come to the village as if to a dacha,” Adil says.
Land in rural areas is divided into shares, of which local residents have the right to acquire ownership. In small villages, this is 12-15 acres per person; in larger villages, often per hectare. A resident can sell this land, rent it out, build something there as they see fit.
And if a villager decides to grow something on this land, they are entitled to state subsidies which often cover a significant part of the costs, such as for seeds, fertilizers, even equipment.
“All locals have these rights and opportunities. But we are not allowed to privatize the land, and here it is impossible to earn money by doing agriculture. So I live with my family in the town center and work there. And I come to the village as if to a dacha,” Adil says.
Village founded in 1920
One of the oldest residents of Uryanoba, 75-year-old Khalid Misirkhanov, says that the village was founded in the early 1920s at the dawn of Soviet power.
“Our ancestors came here from Dagestan in 1922-1923. We came here to buy land for agricultural work. Among the first to arrive here were my father and uncle. They bought 96 hectares of land from a local landowner with gold coins. There is even a bill of sale written in Arabic script.”
On the same plot of land the small village of Uryanoba appeared, consisting of twelve houses. In the 1930s, all land plots were nationalized.
“The land passed to the state, they stopped dividing it into yours and mine, everything belonged to the government. In 1936 a state farm was organized in Akhty. Uryanoba became the fourth department of that state farm. I myself worked on that state farm for three or four years. But since I studied at school and knew Russian, I took courses as an electrician and began working at the Khachmaz Electric Networks company,” Khalid Misirkhanov says.
One of the oldest residents of Uryanoba, 75-year-old Khalid Misirkhanov, says that the village was founded in the early 1920s at the dawn of Soviet power.
“Our ancestors came here from Dagestan in 1922-1923. We came here to buy land for agricultural work. Among the first to arrive here were my father and uncle. They bought 96 hectares of land from a local landowner with gold coins. There is even a bill of sale written in Arabic script.”
On the same plot of land the small village of Uryanoba appeared, consisting of twelve houses. In the 1930s, all land plots were nationalized.
“The land passed to the state, they stopped dividing it into yours and mine, everything belonged to the government. In 1936 a state farm was organized in Akhty. Uryanoba became the fourth department of that state farm. I myself worked on that state farm for three or four years. But since I studied at school and knew Russian, I took courses as an electrician and began working at the Khachmaz Electric Networks company,” Khalid Misirkhanov says.
Khalid Misirkhanov, resident of Uryanoba
Without road, light, gas, water or school
Locals say that this village had no infrastructure for almost the entirety of its existence. Electricity first came here in the late 1980s. Prior to that people used candles, kerosene lamps, did not know about the existence of a TV, refrigerators. There’s still no gas, though there is a pump near the village.
“Shortly before the collapse of the USSR, a one and a half kilometer single-phase electrical line was laid here at the expense of villagers. Until recently the whole village was on the same line. The voltage was so weak that the bulbs burned like candles and we could not use any equipment. After the appointment of a new head of the district, a transformer was installed, thanks to him for this. Now it is more or less normal,” Misirkhanov observed, adding that the rural road was also put in order a year or two ago.
“The former head filled the local road with about a hundred trucks of rubble. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to get there."
One of the biggest problems in the village is water. Locals say that Uryanoba used to be rich in underground water sources, but now everything has dried up. There is a serious problem with the provision of water to arable land, and gardens are dying en masse.
There has never been a school here. Misirkhanov says that in the 1950’s he and other children went to school in the city of Khachmaz, navigating 4-5 kilometers of rough terrain. The children still go to school in Khachmaz, but now their parents bring them in cars.
Locals say that this village had no infrastructure for almost the entirety of its existence. Electricity first came here in the late 1980s. Prior to that people used candles, kerosene lamps, did not know about the existence of a TV, refrigerators. There’s still no gas, though there is a pump near the village.
“Shortly before the collapse of the USSR, a one and a half kilometer single-phase electrical line was laid here at the expense of villagers. Until recently the whole village was on the same line. The voltage was so weak that the bulbs burned like candles and we could not use any equipment. After the appointment of a new head of the district, a transformer was installed, thanks to him for this. Now it is more or less normal,” Misirkhanov observed, adding that the rural road was also put in order a year or two ago.
“The former head filled the local road with about a hundred trucks of rubble. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to get there."
One of the biggest problems in the village is water. Locals say that Uryanoba used to be rich in underground water sources, but now everything has dried up. There is a serious problem with the provision of water to arable land, and gardens are dying en masse.
There has never been a school here. Misirkhanov says that in the 1950’s he and other children went to school in the city of Khachmaz, navigating 4-5 kilometers of rough terrain. The children still go to school in Khachmaz, but now their parents bring them in cars.
Without road, light, gas, water or school
Locals say that this village had no infrastructure for almost the entirety of its existence. Electricity first came here in the late 1980s. Prior to that people used candles, kerosene lamps, did not know about the existence of a TV, refrigerators. There’s still no gas, though there is a pump near the village.
“Shortly before the collapse of the USSR, a one and a half kilometer single-phase electrical line was laid here at the expense of villagers. Until recently the whole village was on the same line. The voltage was so weak that the bulbs burned like candles and we could not use any equipment. After the appointment of a new head of the district, a transformer was installed, thanks to him for this. Now it is more or less normal,” Misirkhanov observed, adding that the rural road was also put in order a year or two ago.
“The former head filled the local road with about a hundred trucks of rubble. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to get there."
One of the biggest problems in the village is water. Locals say that Uryanoba used to be rich in underground water sources, but now everything has dried up. There is a serious problem with the provision of water to arable land, and gardens are dying en masse.
There has never been a school here. Misirkhanov says that in the 1950’s he and other children went to school in the city of Khachmaz, navigating 4-5 kilometers of rough terrain. The children still go to school in Khachmaz, but now their parents bring them in cars.
Locals say that this village had no infrastructure for almost the entirety of its existence. Electricity first came here in the late 1980s. Prior to that people used candles, kerosene lamps, did not know about the existence of a TV, refrigerators. There’s still no gas, though there is a pump near the village.
“Shortly before the collapse of the USSR, a one and a half kilometer single-phase electrical line was laid here at the expense of villagers. Until recently the whole village was on the same line. The voltage was so weak that the bulbs burned like candles and we could not use any equipment. After the appointment of a new head of the district, a transformer was installed, thanks to him for this. Now it is more or less normal,” Misirkhanov observed, adding that the rural road was also put in order a year or two ago.
“The former head filled the local road with about a hundred trucks of rubble. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to get there."
One of the biggest problems in the village is water. Locals say that Uryanoba used to be rich in underground water sources, but now everything has dried up. There is a serious problem with the provision of water to arable land, and gardens are dying en masse.
There has never been a school here. Misirkhanov says that in the 1950’s he and other children went to school in the city of Khachmaz, navigating 4-5 kilometers of rough terrain. The children still go to school in Khachmaz, but now their parents bring them in cars.
Separatist sentiment after independence
Misirkhanov also says that in the first years of independence, there were protests and separatism in the village.
“In the early 1990s they held a rally in Akhty. At that time I also went to Akhty, got right into the thick of the rally. They said that allegedly the government of Azerbaijan is torturing the inhabitants of Uryanoba. I was invited to speak. They thought that I would just repeat what they said before me. And I turned to the people, I said that those who have no relatives on the Azerbaijani side should raise their hands. Nobody did. So I asked them what they wanted to achieve. The Russian government is provoking you, you and I will die, brothers will kill each other. Be reasonable."
From time to time protests happened over disputed territory between Russia and Azerbaijan in which the villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba are located.
Khalid Misirkhanov says that in 2003, when the construction of the Khan Canal was being done here, a large part of the land fell under construction and this caused a new wave of protests. The Cabinet of Ministers of Azerbaijan stated that there could be no talk of any withdrawal of land plots because the land belongs to Azerbaijan and it was used for the construction of an object of national importance.
“This is news to us. Only then did we learn that the territory of the village was leased to Dagestan in the Soviet years for agricultural work, during the years of independence the lease agreement was renewed several times, but the last lease term expired in 2004,” Misirkhanov recalls.
Misirkhanov also says that in the first years of independence, there were protests and separatism in the village.
“In the early 1990s they held a rally in Akhty. At that time I also went to Akhty, got right into the thick of the rally. They said that allegedly the government of Azerbaijan is torturing the inhabitants of Uryanoba. I was invited to speak. They thought that I would just repeat what they said before me. And I turned to the people, I said that those who have no relatives on the Azerbaijani side should raise their hands. Nobody did. So I asked them what they wanted to achieve. The Russian government is provoking you, you and I will die, brothers will kill each other. Be reasonable."
From time to time protests happened over disputed territory between Russia and Azerbaijan in which the villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba are located.
Khalid Misirkhanov says that in 2003, when the construction of the Khan Canal was being done here, a large part of the land fell under construction and this caused a new wave of protests. The Cabinet of Ministers of Azerbaijan stated that there could be no talk of any withdrawal of land plots because the land belongs to Azerbaijan and it was used for the construction of an object of national importance.
“This is news to us. Only then did we learn that the territory of the village was leased to Dagestan in the Soviet years for agricultural work, during the years of independence the lease agreement was renewed several times, but the last lease term expired in 2004,” Misirkhanov recalls.
Negotiations between Russia and Azerbaijan on the ownership of the territory
With the expiration of the lease, the fate of the villagers was up in the air. During negotiations, residents were given a choice — Azerbaijani citizenship and staying put, or Russian citizenship and leaving for Dagestan.
Because of this, protests broke out again in 2009. While the majority of the inhabitants of Uryanoba agreed to accept Azerbaijani citizenship, in Khrakhob they wanted to remain Russian citizens and not leave their village.
After long negotiations between the two states in September 2010, Russia and Azerbaijan agreed on all issues of ownership of the territories and signed an agreement on the state border. In August 2013 Russian President Vladimir Putin ordered the resettlement of Russian citizens living in this territory of Azerbaijan.
In the same year, by the decision of the Milli Majlis (parliament of Azerbaijan), the village of Khrahoba was renamed Palydly.
The resettlement continued until 2018. The government of Dagestan allocated 210 million rubles from its budget in 2018 for the resettlement of residents of the villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba to the territory of the republic.
In 2017, more than 370 residents of the villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba applied for one-time allowances for resettlement and the purchase of apartments. The list included 366 people (135 families) from Khrakhob and eleven residents (three families) from Uryanoba.
With the expiration of the lease, the fate of the villagers was up in the air. During negotiations, residents were given a choice — Azerbaijani citizenship and staying put, or Russian citizenship and leaving for Dagestan.
Because of this, protests broke out again in 2009. While the majority of the inhabitants of Uryanoba agreed to accept Azerbaijani citizenship, in Khrakhob they wanted to remain Russian citizens and not leave their village.
After long negotiations between the two states in September 2010, Russia and Azerbaijan agreed on all issues of ownership of the territories and signed an agreement on the state border. In August 2013 Russian President Vladimir Putin ordered the resettlement of Russian citizens living in this territory of Azerbaijan.
In the same year, by the decision of the Milli Majlis (parliament of Azerbaijan), the village of Khrahoba was renamed Palydly.
The resettlement continued until 2018. The government of Dagestan allocated 210 million rubles from its budget in 2018 for the resettlement of residents of the villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba to the territory of the republic.
In 2017, more than 370 residents of the villages of Khrakhoba and Uryanoba applied for one-time allowances for resettlement and the purchase of apartments. The list included 366 people (135 families) from Khrakhob and eleven residents (three families) from Uryanoba.
There are no people who left Uryanoba
The three families living in Uryanoba have not left the village, though they received funds for resettlement in Dagestan, and have managed to buy a house and a land plot.
“My husband remained a citizen of Russia, but I am not from this village — I was born in Khachmaz, I came here after marriage. My husband was given a house in Dagestan. But I work in Khachmaz, that's why I stayed in Uryanoba. Before the pandemic my husband, according to the migration rules, traveled to Dagestan once every three months and came back. But because of the quarantine, the roads were closed and he couldn’t go there. The state itself did this because of the pandemic,” a village resident who wished to remain anonymous said.
According to the residents of Uryanoba, no one left the village. On the contrary, because of the war in Ukraine, even those who left the village ten or twenty years ago for work in Russia have returned. They give two reasons for this — unwillingness to participate in the war and the deterioration of living conditions in Russia. And now there are not twelve houses in the village, as of old, but as many as sixteen.
The three families living in Uryanoba have not left the village, though they received funds for resettlement in Dagestan, and have managed to buy a house and a land plot.
“My husband remained a citizen of Russia, but I am not from this village — I was born in Khachmaz, I came here after marriage. My husband was given a house in Dagestan. But I work in Khachmaz, that's why I stayed in Uryanoba. Before the pandemic my husband, according to the migration rules, traveled to Dagestan once every three months and came back. But because of the quarantine, the roads were closed and he couldn’t go there. The state itself did this because of the pandemic,” a village resident who wished to remain anonymous said.
According to the residents of Uryanoba, no one left the village. On the contrary, because of the war in Ukraine, even those who left the village ten or twenty years ago for work in Russia have returned. They give two reasons for this — unwillingness to participate in the war and the deterioration of living conditions in Russia. And now there are not twelve houses in the village, as of old, but as many as sixteen.
Secret "private enterprise"
The village of Khrakhoba, now Palydly, was completely deserted when all the inhabitants moved to Dagestan.
Arriving in this village we found only abandoned houses. And in the center of the village we were stopped by a man who looked like a security officer. He refused to introduce himself and noted that this was not the village of Palydly, but a private company called Palydly. Our questions about who owns this company and what it does went unanswered. We were asked to leave "private property" immediately.
According to local media, the village of Khrakhoba was transferred to the control of Mahir Guliyev, the uncle of Elchin Kuliyev, the head of the State Border Service of Azerbaijan. Several residents of Khachmaz who refused to identify themselves confirmed this claim.
The village of Khrakhoba, now Palydly, was completely deserted when all the inhabitants moved to Dagestan.
Arriving in this village we found only abandoned houses. And in the center of the village we were stopped by a man who looked like a security officer. He refused to introduce himself and noted that this was not the village of Palydly, but a private company called Palydly. Our questions about who owns this company and what it does went unanswered. We were asked to leave "private property" immediately.
According to local media, the village of Khrakhoba was transferred to the control of Mahir Guliyev, the uncle of Elchin Kuliyev, the head of the State Border Service of Azerbaijan. Several residents of Khachmaz who refused to identify themselves confirmed this claim.
Abandoned houses in Khrahoba
The new settlement of Palydly and the “Turkization” of the population
Despite Khrakhoba being empty, a new settlement of modern cottages has been erected opposite the village. Families from different regions of Azerbaijan have been resettled in the area, mainly immigrants from Nakhichevan. A new school was built in the village called Palydly in 2013. Schoolchildren from all over the area come for school, since there is a dearth of children in the village itself. They are transported here on specially dedicated buses.
According to Khachmaz residents, the resettlement of Azerbaijanis from other regions of the country to Palydly serves to prevent separatist sentiments in areas where ethnic minorities live.
“After the events in Khrahoba, at the instigation of Russia the Azerbaijani government resettled here Turkic families from different regions of the country in order to dampen separatist sentiments,” an inhabitant of the regional center told us.
Despite Khrakhoba being empty, a new settlement of modern cottages has been erected opposite the village. Families from different regions of Azerbaijan have been resettled in the area, mainly immigrants from Nakhichevan. A new school was built in the village called Palydly in 2013. Schoolchildren from all over the area come for school, since there is a dearth of children in the village itself. They are transported here on specially dedicated buses.
According to Khachmaz residents, the resettlement of Azerbaijanis from other regions of the country to Palydly serves to prevent separatist sentiments in areas where ethnic minorities live.
“After the events in Khrahoba, at the instigation of Russia the Azerbaijani government resettled here Turkic families from different regions of the country in order to dampen separatist sentiments,” an inhabitant of the regional center told us.
Palydly - new Khrahoba
Palydly School
“They want us to get tired and leave the village”
“We have never shared the thoughts of the inhabitants of Khrakhoba. We are Azerbaijanis and we are proud of it. But now we do not understand this discrimination we face. It has already been thirteen years since we took Azerbaijani citizenship but we still cannot privatize our own houses, land plots,” Misirkhanov complains.
He says the impossibility of privatization seriously affects their standard of living:
“We cannot use the subsidies that the state allocates to agriculture. Here people are mainly engaged in gardening and growing wheat. They need fertilizer. A bag of saltpeter costs 35-40 manats [about $20-24], a bag of ammophos costs 90 manats [about $55]. I live on a pension, I don't have that kind of money. And if you do not use fertilizers, there is no harvest. This is how the standard of living falls. And if we could privatize the land, we would be given cards, like others, and we could buy saltpeter for 8 manats [about $5] and ammophos for 15 manats [about $9].”
The villagers believe that by postponing privatization, they want to get rid of Uryanoba.
“There are different people who want people to get tired, leave, and after that they will buy the entire territory of the village. Khrahoba was placed under the control of the head of the state border service, Elchin Kuliyev. Probably they want to transfer this village to him. But there are traces of my parents - mother, father. How can I leave the land that my father plowed with such toil? Are we going to let the land beneath our feet be sold? If they do this after my death I won’t be able to interfere with anything, but as long as I and others like me live here, they don’t even dream of it. I'll gouge out their eyes!" Khalid Misirkhanov declares.
“We have never shared the thoughts of the inhabitants of Khrakhoba. We are Azerbaijanis and we are proud of it. But now we do not understand this discrimination we face. It has already been thirteen years since we took Azerbaijani citizenship but we still cannot privatize our own houses, land plots,” Misirkhanov complains.
He says the impossibility of privatization seriously affects their standard of living:
“We cannot use the subsidies that the state allocates to agriculture. Here people are mainly engaged in gardening and growing wheat. They need fertilizer. A bag of saltpeter costs 35-40 manats [about $20-24], a bag of ammophos costs 90 manats [about $55]. I live on a pension, I don't have that kind of money. And if you do not use fertilizers, there is no harvest. This is how the standard of living falls. And if we could privatize the land, we would be given cards, like others, and we could buy saltpeter for 8 manats [about $5] and ammophos for 15 manats [about $9].”
The villagers believe that by postponing privatization, they want to get rid of Uryanoba.
“There are different people who want people to get tired, leave, and after that they will buy the entire territory of the village. Khrahoba was placed under the control of the head of the state border service, Elchin Kuliyev. Probably they want to transfer this village to him. But there are traces of my parents - mother, father. How can I leave the land that my father plowed with such toil? Are we going to let the land beneath our feet be sold? If they do this after my death I won’t be able to interfere with anything, but as long as I and others like me live here, they don’t even dream of it. I'll gouge out their eyes!" Khalid Misirkhanov declares.
Author
Samira Ahmedbeyli
Photo
Elmaddin Shamilzade
Samira Ahmedbeyli
Photo
Elmaddin Shamilzade
